Connecticut Top Rope Anchors Gear List
INTRO:
Being able to set safe and efficient anchors is a foundational skill for the outdoor climber. Learning how to do it correctly, including having the correct gear, is one of the most important steps that you can take as a budding outdoor climber. Keep reading for our take on what gear you’ll want to give you the best options for constructing strong and robust top rope anchors during every outing.
Know Before You Buy:
So, below you’ve got a list of gear and you’re ready to run out and buy it all! Before you do, we suggest you take a course with a qualified guide to learn the ropes, knots, and systems first. You’ll be able to use their equipment, see different options, and have a better idea of what to buy and how to use it. Also, most retail stores don’t allow the return of climbing safety equipment, so buying correctly the first time will save you from wasting money on improper or needless gear.
Can I Buy Used Gear?:
We HIGHLY recommend against buying used safety gear, especially ropes, harnesses, and other soft goods. These items have a wear-out date of a few years, and repeated use/abuse can cause them to fail earlier. Buy new as much as you can, or if you must, purchase used items that are still in their original packaging, have a recent manufacture date, and are from a reputable seller.
How Do I Know What Gear Is Rated For Climbing?:
When buying equipment to use for climbing, you’ll want to ensure that it is fully rated and certified for climbing. Any gear that is rated for such will be marked with either “CE” or “UIAA”. If your gear doesn’t have one or both designators somewhere on it or its packaging, DO NOT USE IT!
Be On The Lookout:
There have been some trends of gear being marketed for climbing, usually on Amazon or another third party, that does not originate from a trusted brand and are not tested for climbing nor do they carry the CE or UIAA marks. Additionally, some equipment has been reportedly marked with a fake CE or UIAA stamp. The best way to ensure that the gear you are purchasing is rated for climbing is to purchase it from a reliable gear retailer, brand, or climbing/outdoor shop.
Lets Get To The Shopping List:
100’+ of Static Line
60m Dynamic Climbing Rope
120cm dyneema sling (double length)
180 or 240cm dyneema sling (triple or quad length)
Cordalette, 20’+ of 7mm cord
4 locking carabiners
Assisted Braking Belay Device
Helmets for each member of your party
Static Line:
In places where there aren’t a lot of bolted anchors, or where those bolts may be hard to access when not on lead, you will need a static line to ensure that you master point is extended over the cliff edge, or to reach hard/sketchy to reach bolts. We recommend you avoid the “old school” choice of 1” tubular webbing. Additionally, try to purchase your static line in a different color than your dynamic climbing rope to make it easier to differentiate between them.
We recommend the Sterling 3/8” Superstatic2 line for its durability and ease of use. Many static lines tend to be very stiff and harder to tie knots in, but we’ve found this rope to handle exceptionally well.
Dynamic Rope:
A good dynamic rope is necessary for all of your outdoor climbing, and different objectives will call for different types and diameters of ropes. For top roping, we recommend a fatter, 9.5mm+ rope. A rope that is bi-pattern will make the mid-mark easier to find, and rope with dry treatment will absorb less water if wet and likely have better durability. Each additional feature will increase the cost of the rope.
I’ve been getting a lot of use out of the Beal Karma 9.8, and find it handles like a skinnier rope, and holds up very well at a super affordable price point.
Dyneema Slings:
You'll likely want a few slings of different lengths for constructing anchors. These will likely find the most use on bolted anchors, rather than natural features. I recommend Dyneema slings as an excellent starting point for these applications. I always carry both a 120cm and a 180cm sling on my harness, usually Mammut contact sling.
Cordalette:
A cordalette is a length of 7mm cord that is tied in a loop, generally with a double fisherman’s knot. A cordalette is longer than most slings, and used when we need to wrap around larger trees or rocks, or simply make a longer or lower hanging master point on an anchor.
We recommend a cordalette constructed from a 20’+ length of cordage. You can buy this by the foot at many climbing shops or in packaged preset lengths, such as this Sterling Accessory Cord.
Locking Carabiners
Locking carabiners come in many shapes and sizes, with the most common being Oval, D-Shaped, and Pear Shaped. Each type has its own specific and best case uses. For the most versatility, smaller D-shaped carabiners likely won’t cut it. You’re best bet is to purchase some larger D-shaped carabiners, or pear shaped variants for your needs.
You will need two of the same carabiners for the master point of your anchors, and at least another 1-2 for the rest of your anchor or attaching your belay device or friction hitch.
We recommend both the Petzl Rocha and Attache carabiners, and carry a mix of both on most days.
Belay Device
An assisted braking belay device is a great tool to use to secure yourself when working near the edge of a cliff. Clipping this into a fixed end/one leg of your static line anchor allows you to remain attached while at the edge, and even rappel over it as necessary. Not only this, but an assisted braking device is highly highly recommended for normal belaying, and makes tasks like self and partner rescue much easier.
We recommend the Petzl Grigri as the classic, go-to belay device.
Helmets:
Protect your dome, wear a helmet! Rock fall is a real hazard at come crags in Connecticut, New England, and beyond. It is important to remember that even while top-roping accidents can happen. Wear a helmet when you’re climbing, when you’re belaying, or when you’re hanging out in the “splash zone” at the base of the cliff.
We like the Petzl Sirocco for daily use due to its light weight and breathability.
Conclusion:
So, there you have it! A shopping list to get yourself outside and ready to set your own topropes. If you have any further questions, nothing can replace structured and professional training like we offer at Small Cliffs Guiding. Be safe, make smart choices, and we’ll see you out on the cliff!
